Tuesday, April 21, 2009

HELP ME

Fatma just told me that this guy that I met yesterday wants to sit and talk with me some more. Sounds sorta normal, right?
YEAH. NOT HERE.
I'm really afraid she's taking on the mother match-making role, trying to find me a good husband. She asked me what my opinion was of him, and I was like, I don't know him? And then she asked if I would be ok with sitting and talking to him. How can I say no? It's one of her family friend's sons and there's nothing outwardly not okay with it, but I know that that's how spouse hunting starts here. So I said maybe, but I'm busy.
I just want to come home again.

Monday, April 13, 2009

A Thoughtful Reflection on Egyptian Culture...

i.e., I no longer will maintain the cultural relativity, my butt stance. At least for the duration of this entry.
before you continue reading, look at this picture: http://virb.com/458278556709923/photos/1314926/fullsize
Full credit to whoever put that up, smile, or something? Go you.
So now, if you have looked at that picture, please continue reading. Otherwise, you will just be confused.
So, just as a brief background, I found this picture while stumbling around the internet. This was shortly after my friend's friend's mom (unsuccessfully) tried to convert me to Islam, so I was pretty much like, yeah! Go the west! Open affection, open minds! We rock!
And then, as per usual, whenever I think anything that isn't loaded with all sorts of subtleties, I later changed, altered, and rearranged that thought. And it led me to make all sorts of observations about this culture, myself, and the west. Which you will now have the great privilege of reading.
The first thing I realized is that this picture is really really hypocritical. It's trying to depict the West as open-minded and the East as a closed place that discourages affection between men and women. Well, if the west is open-minded, it's a pretty big leap to make to think that this picture can accurately summarize relationships between men and women in the Middle East, or even just in Egypt. (I really do think these might be Egyptians. The man just looks, really, really Egyptian, like his clothes and everything. And the woman too.) And also, the west certainly has its share of marital problems, with a divorce rate of what, 50% or something. (I should write about the divorce procedure in Egypt. I actually think America has a lot to learn from how they do it here.) And this particular couple might just not be particularly affectionate, that's pretty normal in the culture here. It's really rare for couples to be openly affectionate in public here too, one of our teachers actually said that if a husband respects his wife, he won't be too affectionate with her in public because it's sort of disrespectful and will make her look disreputable. And actually, on this point, I saw a couple pretty much like the one in this picture, the man wearing the religious beard, and the woman a niqab, and they were like locking arms, and they were pretty old, and it was sooooo cute. So yes. Basically, if the West were such an open place, we wouldn't assume that wearing these sort of clothes and acting like this couple is doesn't mean that they aren't loving or are really close minded.
Also, the white couple just kinda bugged me. Like, how long will they be able to keep up that sort of affection? Sorry, that's just me being my cynical crabby old lady self. HOWEVER, this is relevant, because you find Egyptian couples doing the Egyptian equivalent of the white couple thing here, and it just bugs the crap out of me. Because the girls are always hijabed and you know, your model good Muslim girl, and then she's like out holding hands and being all pouty and flirty with her fiancee (who she could and probably will leave at any point). And you never see girls without hijabs doing this kind of stuff in public, because they can't get away with it. If they tried, everyone would just be like, you hair exposing whore, tempting our good muslim boys! Whereas, if you wear a hijab, go right ahead and tempt 'em. (let me add that the percentage of girls who engage in this sort of behavior is very small, but very visible. and that I'm not against the behavior, but the hypocrisy behind it. yeah). What was the point? I forgot. I'm sorry. Oh, that the white couple behavior doesn't mean they're any more loving. Just that they're more obvious and physical.
Which brings me to my next point. While there are all sorts of terrible men and terrible husbands here (and they are enabled by the culture since women are, in most circumstances, more or less powerless to them, or at the least, subservient to them, thus giving them the chance to be as tyrannical as they want), those who are good, really really respect women. As weird as that might sound. And also, I admire the fact that they take their faith so seriously, and really hold to it. As long as they don't try to convert me to it.
Well, that's all for now. Potentially more observations to be added at a later time.
Peace out, yo.
: ) E.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

I want to go home

Yep. That's just it. I want to go home.
I had a whole series of weird interactions with my friend who lives in the country and her family, the least weird being the mother of one of her friends telling me that I should rethink the fact that I was a Christian and the the Bible isn't a true book, that it's been changed. While of course, the Koran is the one true book, and she shouldn't change her religion. Then, of course, they couldn't understand why for the life of them I was upset. I even started crying, because they just wouldn't drop it and I was SO MAD. What gives them the right to tell me my religion is false? I would never rip into one of them and tell them that the way that Islam is practiced in Egypt basically imprisons girls and then makes them think they're being protected (even though I would totally think and then write in my blog...). And the worst part was that my friend went along with it too. I just want to go home where others basically respect my beliefs. Or not even that. Just leave me alone to do as I want. And also, I can't explain to them why I think saying this kind of stuff to me is wrong. They don't have the like, cultural basis, to understand it.
But yeah. Generally speaking, if anyone in America treated me that way, we wouldn't be friends anymore. End of discussion. But like, they're still so nice to me that I don't want to cut off the friendship. Also, they're really good at making me feel guilty for not coming to see them enough and I fall for it every time. Damn you, my conscience. Damn you!
And like. I like it when my friends are ok with me leaving, and don't make me feel bad because I have to do something else, and can't be with them ALL THE TIME. And also, I NEVER EVER EVER EVER GET ANY TIME ALONE OUT THERE (in the country). Which I sort of understand, like, I'm a guest, and it would be a bit rude to leave me alone, but I'm that way. I need some time alone. Or at the very least, time when I don't have to focus on arabic all the time. Actually, that's sort of a theme of my life here. I wish so badly I could buy a soda and just go chill next to the sea after school some day, but I can't, because that is primo harassment territory. Compare that to Middlebury (or even Barre), where when I had something I really couldn't figure out, I would go for a walk alone, as late as ten at night. Without being covered from ankle to neck. God. It's these tiny differences, the ones that I was so good at glossing over just a few weeks ago, that are finally getting to me.
At the very least, it's just a month til I'll be home. And I'm sure I'll miss it here by that point.
blurgh.

Saturday, March 21, 2009

A Continuation of the "Cultural Relativity, My Butt" Theme

And Stories from the Wedding in the Country

All right, so let me just preface this by saying that I'm going to be completely open and honest about some of my opinions about Egyptian culture. This means I'll probably come across as self-righteous, arrogant, and intolerant sometimes. All I can say in my defense is that having lived here, these are the realities of the lives of the majority of people in Egypt, and if anything, I'm not making as much of some of these things as I could be.
Right. So. Topic 1 (which may be the only topic I write on now): Sex Before Marriage in Egypt
It doesn't happen -- or at least that's what the majority of Egyptian Muslims like to think and will tell you. I'm certain that it does. The reasons for this are that a) marriage is the primary goal in life for most Egyptians (esp girls) and b) all girls must be virgins when they get married. So much of Egyptian life centers around protecting their daughters' virginity. The way the majority of religious families do this is to never let their daughters go out alone, or actually with anybody outside the family - though they can go out with a family member and their female friends, or if their female friends are close with the family, just the female friends. Sons can move out of their family homes when they turn 21 (though quite a lot don't do so), but daughters live with their families until they're married (ideally before they turn 25). Boyfriends and girlfriends aren't really an accepted concept here -- they go straight to engagement. If you want to spend time with your engaged, you either sit with him at your family's house for a supervised visit, or you go out with him and one of your brothers to supervise to make sure no funny business happens.
And what does this do? Well, from my standpoint, it puts girls in what is, functionally, a prison. And because they grow up with this notion, it makes them think that this prison is a sign of love because their family wants to protect them (which is, to be honest, the motivation of the families that live this way). It keeps them from ever taking responsibility for themselves. And it makes them think that men are out to get them or something, all the time. So they enjoy the protection and they think it's necessary.
As for the men, they think that they're really missing out on something, and because they can't have normal interactions with any girls outside their families, they can get sort of desperate (this comes across when they harass foreigners, cause we're exceptions to the rule).
So from my standpoint, what all this protection and guarding and cultural whatever really does is just to build up pre-marital sex into this huge thing that it really isn't. And it also extends way past not having sex before marriage into not interacting with the opposite sex because you're scared they'll try to jump you. And then men sort of fall into that role. And it also keeps women from ever living on their own -- creating them as pretty dependent people.
I got all this info from Madam Fatma. These were my basic conclusions. I had no idea how to explain to her that having pre-marital sex doesn't mean you're a bad person. And I also didn't know how to explain without sounding self-righteous (who am I kidding? this is a self-righteous statement) that in America, we're free to make as many bad decisions as we want (whatever you want to think of bad decisions as), but that that means that when we make the right decisions, it's because of our own values, not because we don't have the option to mess up. OH. And the other thing that really bugged me about this whole protecting girls situation is that it's basically a big way of saying that families don't trust their daughters, and then it gets switched around to protecting them from the big bad men of the world. But the boys can go out and do whatever they want. I don't know if that's clear. I hope so.
Anyway. The wedding was cool, but mostly because I got to see everyone I know in this village because they all got together for the party, not because of the wedding itself. I actually accidentally got left behind for the coolest part of the wedding. Oh well. They did have some traditions that I hadn't seen -- namely putting up handprints from the blood of the water buffalo they slaughtered on the wall, and doing this traditional dancing that was almost exactly like breakdancing in America (I'm still not sure if someone just saw a video on youtube and then it caught on, or if this is a real tradition...cause only the twenty and younger guys were doing it). I met a lot a lot of teenage/twenties cousins of my friend, and now they are all always calling me, cause that's what happens when Egyptians meet an American. blergh.
Also, weird occurrences. I feel conspicuous pretty much all the time here, but in this village, it's because I really am like, someone who's never ever ever seen there. And they think of me like this super model, not because I'm especially pretty, but because my skin's white and I've got blue eyes. Only. And this is like, ok, except that it translates to weird things like my friend's twenty four year old cousin honestly talking to her mother about marrying me. After meeting me once. OH YEAH. THAT'S THE OTHER WEIRD THING ABOUT MARRIAGE HERE. It really doesn't take a lot to get engaged -- you literally meet them once (maybe two or three times) in a structured family visit and if you're attracted to each other, then you get engaged. WHAT?!?!? Back to my friend's cousin -- he then wanted to take a picture with me, and I really really didn't want to, and when they asked if I wanted to, I was like, not really... in Arabic, but her family was like, no, no, he just wants to show his friends he met you, and it's ok, he's part of our family. Meanwhile I'm thinking, this is no different than the men who harass me in the street, he's just ok because he's related to you. Blargh. In the end, the picture was taken, but I didn't touch him and I made a very uncomfortable face.
Let me just say, for all that finding out about how girls are raised here freaked me out, it did finally establish in mind that I could never settle down and make a life here...a) because I would never fit here and b) should I ever have children, I couldn't raise them this way. So, one good thing, I suppose.
Ending on a positive note, it made me really happy to see my friend and her family. OH YEAH AND I GOT MY INTERNSHIP IN DC. For those of you who didn't know, I was applying to work in the Dept. of Education dealing with published materials. It sounds really really cool...especially because I'll actually be doing things.
Whew. That's it. Be well and keep in touch.
love,
e.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Update

I visited the guy who runs the bookstore across the street for an hour, and I don't hate Egypt anymore.
e.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Stuff

So I've hit a sudden bout of homesickness, and what better to do than to blog about it so everyone else can read it?
I guess I'm just really frustrated by some of the stuff I have to deal with in Egypt -- people ALWAYS staring at me at the least, and at the worst, making obscene gestures at me and calling me sexy lady. And while I know that it's nothing that will bring about any lasting harm, and it's something that I just have to deal with, that DOES NOT AT ALL MAKE IT OK FOR ME. I get it. I'm in a different culture and I have to live here, but I am so excited to go back to America where, a)I can walk around on the street and expect not to get harassed. And if someone does harass me, I can feel entitled to let them have it. and b) I'm free to do whatever I want, wear whatever I want, and really actually openly honestly speak my mind.
Don't get me wrong. I still really like Egypt. It's just that now having to give up certain parts of who I am because of the culture here is starting to wear on me a little bit. I don't think I've had to censor myself so much since leaving high school. And while I won't say by any means that I'm completely grown up and responsible, I'm used to and ready for more responsibility and independence than I get in my life here.
And I thought it was a Middle East thing. Then I went to Jordan, and I realized it's an Egypt thing. I didn't feel at all uncomfortable not wearing a hijab and walking around in short sleeves. Not one man harassed me. And for goodness' sake, it reminded me of America almost. Except that they speak arabic and the food is different.
I love being able to speak the language here. And I love every little success and every time I manage to say a full sentence correctly in Arabic. That said, the system of education is immensely frustrating and unclear.
Basically what I like about being here are my Egyptian friends and speaking colloquial Arabic. Only.
I'm going to visit my friend in the country this weekend and I'm going to get to see the night of henna before the wedding and then the actual wedding. Hopefully I'll be happier after seeing all of her family(?) I love visiting them. The only problem is that we always have some sort of cultural interactiony clash thing that makes me frustrated. I guess I just assumed a lot of things were basically accepted as true and rational in the world we live in today. NOPE.
BLARGH. Cultural Relativity, my butt.
e.

Saturday, March 14, 2009

I'm Back

in Alexandria. I'm pretty tired. I left Jordan at 6 AM yesterday and got back to Alexandria at 4 AM today. So yeah. long time in transit. I'm actually considering going to bed at 9:30. :P
Sinai was awesome. As were Dahab and Sharm Al-Sheikh. Lots of stories about both. Oh yeah. I also went to Jordan. That was cool too. All right. I'll work my way through all of these places one blog entry at a time in the coming days.
For now, check out some long overdue pictures:



yeah, so those should be links above, but they don't seem to be working...copy and paste it:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2045284&id=4405296&l=c0da7
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2045288&id=4405296&l=650e5
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2045290&id=4405296&l=ff4ff
And just to make sure you keep reading, the coolest pictures, from Petra, are yet to come. Mwahaha. ok sleep.
love,
E.

Monday, March 2, 2009

BlogblogblogBLOGblog Entry

Yep, this sure is a blog entry.
What's up with my life?
I'm still in Egypt, and I'm becoming increasingly attached to it. My friend who lives in the countryside is f'in rockin' and I've visited her pretty much every weekend. I really like visiting her a) because I'm tight with her and her family, and they're awesome people and b) because they're fellaheen and I get to see a side of Egyptian life I'm sure I wouldn't see otherwise. But yes. I really really like her whole family. It's like, a real connection for me here, I'm not sure if I can explain. But like, I tried to play cat's cradle with my friend's little cousin Mirna, and she didn't know how to. But my friend's grandmother did, and when my friend's mom asked where we'd learned how, we both said from our childhood. It just blows my mind that this like, seventy year old egyptian woman who lives in the countryside and I could like, I don't know how to put it, share? something like that in common. Also, I went to what my friend said would be a wedding but actually turned out to be a celebration of a groom (her uncle) buying furniture for the apartment he'll be moving into after he gets married in three weeks. Apparently that's a uniquely fellaheen thing, and like, it was really cool. They played these drums and sang all these songs that I didn't know any of the words to, so I got to be the awkward foreign girl. But I am really amazed by how they've just welcomed me into their lives like it's no big deal.
That said, I keep having these encounters/discussions with them that bring home just how different our lives are. Like first, this friend of their family had stopped by, and earlier one of my friend's cousins had said basically, I love you so much, let's get married! And I said sure, why not? and everyone laughed because this cousin was a girl. Anyway. So they were recounting this story, and this friend of the family said, you know that that doesn't happen here, right? I heard it does in America, what's the word? "Gay?" And then she made this disgusted face. And I just sort of let the topic die away, because it's one of those things where if I really expressed my opinion, it would wreck the friendship. It kind of kills me to do stuff like that, but at the same time, I know I couldn't change their attitude, and it's not like America where I've got some sort of cultural basis to state my opinion -- but I decided if it came up again, I would say that I'm not God, and it's not up to me to say what is wrong and what is right. And in my opinion, if there's more love in the world, that's a good thing. The God reference would turn the Islam argument right back on them -- Islam is very careful about respecting God and God's position above people. Other encounter, not really so uncomfortable, but -- my friend's mom said she felt like I was a little child, and I was scared to upset anyone. And that kind of made me angry, because I've done a lot with my life, and it's really not fair to call me a child. Though the not wanting to upset anyone thing may have been more accurate than I care to admit, which is why it upset me. So I explained that I had worked a lot, and didn't live with my family, and am (relatively, though definitely not even close to completely) financially independent. What I couldn't explain is the reason that I was afraid to upset anyone is that NO ONE, I repeat, NO ONE in America would ever ever ever ever be this generous to a foreign stranger. At the same time, that did make me feel like I could be more open about not wanting to do things if they asked me, and be open about things that do upset me. Still, for all that my friend's family/friends make assumptions about American culture (I've got stories that I won't put up here, ask me if you want them... ;) ), my friend is really sweet and unassuming. And also, she always tells me that she likes it when I get all quiet and whatnot. Which is nice, because in general, Egyptian society values outgoing/vocal behavior. So I like feeling like I can be quiet sometimes.
Ok. My excessive reflection aside, I'm going on spring break this week. We're going to the Sinai Region (though nowhere near the sketchy dangerous Israeli border area), and then I'm splitting off with a couple other kids to go to Petra in Jordan. Woo! Pics definitely to come. ps, Sinai includes snorkeling, chilling, hiking Mount Sinai (um. yeah. The place where Moses got the Ten Commandments from God. What?!?!), and going on a safari in the desert. The desert is pretty much my favorite place ever. I can't describe why. It really is just like, a sea of sand. It's mind blowing. Like, when you think of a desert, you probably just think of a lot of sand. And when you first thought of an ocean, you were probably like, sure, whatever, a lot of water. But remember the first time you actually went out into the ocean in a boat and couldn't see anything but the water around you (if you haven't done this, get on that!)? Analogous to the desert. like whoa.
Fun fact for the day -- I use massive amounts of slang and exaggeration in this blog because I can't do it in Arabic.
Other fun fact -- I'm getting damn good at colloquial arabic. Like, i don't have a vast vocabulary, but my accent is really good, and I know how to use the vocab I do have to really communicate. If I do say so myself. Let's see how I feel after my ten minute presentation for colloquial arabic in two days. >_<
All right. Keep in touch. I'll be gone for the next two weeks or so, but I might have patchy access in net cafes and stuff over break. But I'd love to hear from you.
love, e.

Monday, February 23, 2009

Another Entry

So I want sleep in a big big way right now. This'll be a fairly short blog, I'm writing it mostly cause I haven't written anything in what? like...two weeks. oh snaaaap.
I'm happy here still, but I've had some like..."cultural exchanges," I suppose, that have opened my eyes to the fact that while I really like people here, we differ in some fundamental ways. I'm too tired to write about them now, but like, I tend to just take in the good things about people, so it's not really too much of a problem, but like, yeah. another lesson learned. btw, in the beginning of my time here, I was writing a journal entry every day and in it I would write like, all the lessons I learned...a little like, pedantic, I guess, but it shows what I'm gradually realizing more and more the longer I'm here -- that it's about learning a whole lot more than the language.
speaking of learning arabic, my women's rights teacher asked me today how I had gotten so good at arabic so quickly. SCORE.
um, what else? I visited my friend in the countryside for three days this past weekend. It was really fun, we didn't do much, but like, I know her entire family and entire extended family, so it was more about socializing and relaxing. I taught them how to play american card games. I have never seen any group of people more excited about "Go Fish."
This weekend, I'm planning to just stay here since I went to cairo and then my friend's village for the past two weekends, and I'm missing Alexandria a lot. I'm hoping to go to a big souk here and then to the planetarium near the library. I'm like, super excited, because I've wanted to do both these things since coming here. everything will work out, in sha allah.
Also, on a more serious note, I don't know if any of you have seen in the news, but there was a bombing in a big market district in Cairo yesterday. Four people, two Egyptians and two foreigners, were killed, and ten others were wounded. It still is not known who executed the attack or why. We should remember them and their families.
Other stuff...lent begins on Wednesday. I still haven't decided whether to give up all desserts or just the ones in the center that we have class in. I'm sort of leaning toward the center only since I don't really buy dessert snacky type stuff much outside the center anyway. woo religion.
yeah. pretty much everything is fine. I've got to get on internship apps, but other than that, life is pretty chill. time is flying. I can't believe I'm coming home in two and a half months...we've got our spring break in a week and a half. WTF?!?!
so yes. I am doing really well. keep in touch.
love,
e.

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Good Times

Ok, so I am about to write about what has probably been my favorite day in Egypt so far. I just hope I can do it justice.
So, about a week ago, I called this girl who I had met while I was eating lunch by myself next to the Library of Alexandria. She's Egyptian, born and raised in Alexandria, so she had given me her number and offered to take me around Egypt. This may sound sketchy, but in the context of Egypt, not so much -- people here are really friendly and open. So when I called her, she didn't really understand me and I didn't really understand her. For some reason, phone conversations are much more difficult than face to face. But I had thought we were going to go to Manshia, the part of Alexandria where she lives, and walk around a bit.
So I met her by the library, and she was with her little cousin, who's 11 years old. She had to go to a meeting at the college (all the Egyptian students are on vacation, though), so I hung out with her cuz and these random Egyptian guys who worked in the administration, one of whom, in all serious, no joking at all, actual truth, wanted to marry me. Needless to say, I skipped out of there as quickly as I could. It was funny though, the guy never talked to me about marrying him, he just sort of talked over me to the other people in the office, so when I left with Nourhan (my friend)'s cousin, I was like, Was he talking about marrying me? And she was like, Uh-huh. Blurgh.
But the day only got better after that. Nourhan had told me we were going to go watch some fellaheen (kind of hard to translate -- basically, people who live in the countryside, are involved with agriculture, and are generally more traditional, which does not mean more conservative or reserved, but like, their dress and homes are generally more old style) make bread. And I was like, ok, cool. She neglected to mention that said fellaheen were her family and that they owned a farm and lived in the countryside. SO COOL.
So we took about forty five minutes' worth of mini buses out of the city, and finally exited into a little village named Turih. We first went to her uncle's farm (which had been her grandfather's) and walked around there. It was a guava farm, so we walked through the trees. It's winter now, so obviously there were no guavas. And then we did in fact watch her grandmother and aunt make bread in an outdoor oven. People here, by the way, are so nice. Like, there's stuff they just say like it's nothing, that would be a huge compliment in America. And they mean it too. Like, Nourhan's aunt had a baby who was maybe 1 and a half or so, and she said she hoped her baby would grow up to be like me. Her baby was a boy, so there could be a few problems there, but eh, not the point.
Then I went to Nourhan's family's second apartment (which they keep for vacations and stuff, like now) and ate eggs and french fries and hung out with her and her little cousin, and her other older cousin. Nourhan's mom and dad were so nice. Then we went back to the farm for a bit, and drank tea and hung out with her uncle's family. Then we all went to her grandmother's apartment, and ate a very traditional dinner together -- like pillows on the floor, a little low table in the middle of the room, and one bowl we all ate from, using bread, not forks and knives. And I was just welcomed by the family, like it was no big deal, even though I couldn't really say much at all just because I didn't know enough arabic. And everyone from Nourhan's aunt to her grandmother invited me to sleep over in the village, and like, I really did want to, but I had to come back and study. Poo. But point being, people here are so generous. It really blows my mind. And then we went back to Nourhan's family's apartment for a bit and I got to know her two brothers, and then I had to go back. But like. I can't describe how nice and fun and amazing people are here. Like, her two brothers were so funny -- when I said bye I had to do the whole shake everyone's hand, kiss the women on each cheek thing, and like when I shook nourhan's younger brother's hand his mouth was full of food and his hand was covered in flour and he just made this face like, oh geez, sorry.
And then her dad gave me a ride back into the city. She's staying out in the countryside for the next week or so, and I'm like, going to Cairo and stuff, so I won't be around either. But I think we agreed to have lunch on saturday. If I understood the Arabic correctly.
But yeah. The people here are so cool. Like, there's a lot of things I could dislike about being here, but I'm not in America, and if I expect America, I just won't be happy. Plus there's so much cool stuff here. Like for example, I am now drinking strawberry "juice," which is actually much more like a smoothie, made by my host mom. um. YUM. Strawberries are so common here. And cheap. Apples are expensive (and gross) and strawberries cost less than a US dollar per kilo. So basically, opposite of the US.
But yes, all summed up, I am really happy and doing very well here now.
bye. much love to all.
<3 e.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

And it's been a while...since I last blogged (or listened to nickleback)

Is that song Nickleback? I don't know. Not important.
Ok, so it's been about a week since I last blogged. In that time, I went to an oasis, and a big church in Alexandria for this super fancy service, and...the cinema. yeah, that was about it. Lots of random gossipy stuff happened, but I don't think it's important for me to write that stuff here. Suffice to say, I've been learning a lot about myself and other people too. Particularly what I like and don't like about other people. And what is definitely true and definitely not true about myself. Life sure is a journey.
Um. Also, I've suddenly had somewhat of a breakthrough in my conversational arabic. As in, I can hold a conversation (albeit a light one without any really interesting vocabulary) and not stumble over most of my words or talk at the rate of one word per minute. shwaya shwaya (means little by little, in reference to how foreigners learn english). Also, I've had somewhat of a breakthrough in dealing with heckling. I generally just ignore it, particularly when I'm by myself. When I'm with somebody else, maybe I'll say something like aeb aeb (shame on you, roughly), but basically, I'm just not letting it bother me. khalas. (i can't translate that word -- it sort of means, "at all" and at the same time, "I'm done with that.")
The oasis. Yeah. really really badass. Well, mostly the desert. The oasis was cool, but it was sort of just like a palm forest with water. I guess that's exactly what an oasis is, right? But the desert. Truly truly truly badass. Sure, it's just a bunch of sand, but it's really a lot a lot a lot of sand. All in one place. That was a bad description. I've got pics, and I'll put them up, but I still don't think they capture the true grandeur of the desert.
Um. Other news. I'm happy here now. I was anti social all through the trip to the oasis, just cause like, I don't know. I like everyone in the program, but I was sorta out of the loop because all the other kids live in the dorms and they've got their cliques. and also, I didn't feel much like trying to make conversation. but aside from my anti social tendencies, i didn't have any problems. and I liked everything I saw.
Church was really cool. It was a nice little ego boost that I could understand the service in Arabic and help these other foreigners find their place in the english program, while I was reading the arabic and singing in arabic. oh yeah. that's right. truth.
The cinema was actually very very cool. I know the director/owner because she's a friend of my host mom, so I hung out with her and kate for almost an hour before the film. And then she took us into a movie, and gave us popcorn and green tea. I f'in love Egypt. And popcorn and green tea.
Um. That's all in my life, I guess. If I'm sort of hard to get in touch with, it's probably because I want to practice arabic and not speak english and because I'm trying not to stay in the apartment and feel miserable. but if i'm not on skype, email or facebook. i miss you all terribly.
love,
e.

Monday, January 26, 2009

A Short One

So this is going to be a short one, since all of a sudden I am extremely busy and I don't know how that happened. cause before I didn't know what to do with myself. I guess having class from 9 AM til 5:30 pm (with breaks of course, but I can't come back to the apartment) helps pass the time. ;)
All right. So a lot of things have changed. A) I have become much happier here since realizing that I can have a good time without being able to completely be myself or do the things I did in America. B) I have started to worry a lot less. Both very good things.
Let's see. I went to church yesterday, which was actually really cool. I ended up leaving the service a little early because it was nearly two and a half hours long and I had other places to be. But it was really cool. I took the risk of going to the service in Arabic, and I understood a surprising amount, even though the format of the service is quite different than it is in America. The words are sort of similar, but much more about giving yourself up to God, and less about repenting. Also, the people get really into, like clapping and singing real loud (oh no, there goes my English), and the kids were playing this fake little guitar. It was pretty cool. And I guess there's going to be a big service with all the clergy from England, and like, the Archbishop of Canterbury, there, next Sunday. And I think I'm going to go. I sat next to this British woman who has lived here for a really long time and she translated a bit for me.
Then let's see. Yesterday I also walked around this neighborhood that seems to be composed almost wholly of open air souks. It was really really cool. I want to go back with not just myself, and hopefully with some Egyptians, because the harassment was much more prominent than usual since souks are a place where you don't really ever see foreigners. I'll try and take pictures once I'm more comfortable with looking like a tourist.
And then today, I was eating lunch by myself near the library of Alexandria, which isn't a loner thing to do or anything, I just like to think sometimes. But then this Egyptian girl like, descended upon me and was like, Where are you from? What do you study? You speak Arabic?!?! We have to go around the city together after exams! And then she took my number with her, and I also met two of her friends. Hopefully she'll call me, if not I'll call her once exams finish for the university students. Pretty cool. I feel like stuff like that couldn't or maybe just doesn't, happen very often in America. Part of the reason for that is that it seems that like, mental/interpersonal problems are not very open or obvious here, and when they are found they are usually between men and women. This translates into a lot of really bad things, such as no mental health care system to speak of, and a lot of mistreatment of women by their husbands. But it also means that it is fairly safe to make friends with just about anybody you meet.
Okay. That's all for now. I'm traveling to an oasis this weekend. oh snaaaaaaap.
love,
me

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Not Whiny - I promise

So. After listing a lot of what I hate about being here, I have decided to list some of what I like. Also, having just read up on culture shock, I'm going to try not to romanticize anything, cause apparently that's what people do before crashing into a huge well of depression for four months. whew.
First, I like having like, a pretty full life. It's a little bit like high school, no lie, in that I've got a family I need to phone and let know when I'll be home, and I see most of my friends/people i know when I'm at school, and outside too, but mostly at school, and I don't party at all, and also, I don't talk to boys (except for the ones in the program, and a couple egyptian guys I'm friendly with). whew. But it's cool, because, I've got the family side of things, and the friends side, soon I'll have church, and maybe dance too. And we're going to an orphanage on Friday, which I'm like, wicked excited about. It's pretty much exactly what I would want to do on any given Friday. Like DREAM Friday. But Egyptian style.
Also, Alexandria is a pretty cool mix of country mindset with city stuff. Like there's markets that are just open air, and people are generally really nice and willing to help. But there's so much stuff going on here: concerts, plays, lectures, just tons and tons of stuff.
And I can't really describe what the attitude is like here. It's sort of like stuff is enormously unplanned. At first that drove me crazy. But now I like the fact that I don't need to know exactly what I'm doing and when and where.
Also, the teachers are really cool.
This hasn't really captured what Egypt is like. Like at all. Really. Um, let's see. I don't know if I can describe it. I'll post some pics soon.
love e.

Monday, January 19, 2009

Blog Number 2: Lots of Things





So. Here we go. Lots of things about my life in Egypt.
A) Most Egyptian people (especially girls) are ridiculously nice. Now it's just a matter of finding places to meet them, cause although you can just say hi to people in the street, like in America, it's just a little bit weird. Hopefully church?
b) I hate hate hate hate hate men on the street. Not all of them, but a lot of them. They do stuff like whistle and hiss and say, "welcome to egypt" in english. Today a guy went by me driving a vegetable cart and said "I love you I love you" both in English and arabic. ick.
Ok, so I'm about to vent about my troubles a little bit now. The man thing is just one small part of something that has bothered me a lot since coming here. I like, really really, stick out. A lot. It's twofold, because I'm white and blue eyed, and because my hair is short, so some people here can't tell if I'm a man or a woman. And people turn and stare at me ALL THE TIME. in the tram, in the grocery, on the street, on campus. EVERYWHERE. I hate it. But I was wandering around the mall a couple days ago after getting money from the atm, and I realized that all the mannequins in the mall look more or less like me. slicked back short blond hair, blue eyes, white skin. obviously, i'm not as skinny. nor am i made of plastic. but you know. that was kind of a cool realization, but a little weird at the same time, since it means that the west is clearly glorified a lot here. america in particular. there's stores here with all sorts of weird names, like Demi Moore and Marilyn Monroe, and Mickey Mouse is everywhere. somehow i don't think that turns into like, a revulsion of their own culture, but I'm not sure how.
But, that aside, in general, I'm pretty happy here. I'm new, so I know my life is going to change a lot in the coming months, but I think it'll be ok. I'd like to make some more egyptian friends, and more friends in general, i guess, I've got a couple, not super tight, and I'm not like, desperate for friends or anything. Also, I've stopped pressuring myself to go out and be social since getting here. And I'm actually finding it easier to talk to people because of that. Maybe the limited vocabulary cuts down on the potential for awkwardness a lot. oh weird emma stuff.
Also, I miss America terribly, but I'm still happy here. It's just soooooooo unbelievably different, it's like Egypt and America occupy different parts of my brain. And there's things I really like, but at the same time, I feel in my heart America's my home. But I felt the same way about Barre when I went to Midd, so maybe that will change. It's so weird to try and find a balance between being happy here and being happy to go home too. I shouldn't worry.
Other things. Let's see. I went to the pyramids like, four days ago. Pictures above. It was amazingly cool, but very touristy. i don't think it will be my favorite thing to do here. but one life goal down.
um yeah. so in general, i'm happy. i just feel like i don't really know that much about living here yet. but i want to go out and explore this weekend. in sha' Allah. in sha' Allah.
alright alright. bye my loves. drop me a line if you have time.
e.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

First Entry

So this entry going to be a little boring and short. It's really just here so there is something here. I've got a lot of stuff to write about, mostly about adjusting to Egypt, of course, but that's been somewhat hard and I don't want to dwell on it too much right now. Maybe on a day when I'm not feeling sorry for myself. Basically, I'm fine, I'm learning a lot and I think I will learn even more as time goes on. And the country girl has survived two weeks in the big Egyptian city (ok, so I can't really claim the country girl naivete, but it's sorta legit). In Sha' Allah (God willing) things will continue this way. Right now I miss America, friends, family, everything, hardcore, but I'm still happy here. I sort of hope that the time will fly, but I also hope I stop feeling this way soon. Anyway.
Also, the title of this blog is "No problem" in Arabic. I picked it because that's pretty much the thing I say the most while I'm here. I can't say too much, so it's good to have such a polite phrase ready.
Bye. love to all.